elemental, my dear watson

The ol' man and I had a dining experience last night that I won't soon forget. It's nights like this that make me truly appreciate living in our fair city.

Elemental @ Gasworks is an EVENT disguised as a restaurant. And come to think of it, it's a restaurant in disguise. We knew it was located where Wallingford Ave bottoms out above Gasworks Park. And still we had to search for it. This was a late meal, so it was almost dark. Elemental has no exterior sign. It was not until we got close enough to hear the soft hum of the diners and the clink of glasses that we knew we'd found the place.

We had to wait about 20 minutes to be seated. There are only 5 small tables and they don't take reservations. But they also don't advertise or, as we discovered, bother identifying themselves. They don't want walk-in business. You kinda need to know what you're getting yourself into in order to truly be open to the experience.

And we were. Shortly after we were seated in the best seats (corner table facing the rest of the room), Phred brought us tiny glasses of a clear liquid and then scurried away before we could ask what it was. Turns out that was good, as Phred doesn't want to tell you what he's brought you to drink until after you've tasted it. He's a wine and spirits master.

It turned out to be a sherry of such quality that I actually enjoyed it. Also on every table is a tall, sleek carafe of cucumber infused water. Best damn water I ever had! We drank 2 full carafes over the course of the meal. (And by "we," I mean me. Water lush.)

When Phred returned to ask if we'd like cocktails before dinner, Tim said that we'd just have wine with our meal. Phred clapped his hands together with delight and scurried off again, I thought perhaps to fetch a wine list. No. He came back with our menus and 2 small flashlights. (Did I mention how dark this restaurant is?) He left and returned with white wine on ice in fun glass tumblers, served with a straw. Again, gone before we could ask what it was, though he did mutter, "to lubricate the decision making process," as he turned away. I never drink white wine, but it was very refreshing!

Their food is in the form of small plates, so that you end up ordering many courses. Apparently if you order "wine with your meal" as we did, they bring you a different wine with each course and charge a flat fee per person. Phred chooses the wines based solely on what you order. The menu is hand written on a piece of sheet metal. You definitely need the flashlight.

Our favorite of the dishes, called Spinach Gnudi, was a ricotta and spinach dumpling swimming in a pool of tomato and pine nuts. It was heaven in the mouth, so complex in its simplicity. The funniest dish was the Spiced Quail with Goat Cheese Stuffed Endive. Funny because when it arrived it was so small, it made us giggle. We made jokes about roasted hummingbird, and save me the drumstick, and so on.

But the most amazing thing we had was dessert. It was an Earl Grey Pots de Creme. We each took a bite, letting the soft foam melt over our tongues, waiting, waiting...and then! Finally it emerged, just when I started wondering why they call in Earl Grey, there was the unmistakable oil of bergamot. Tim and I were searching each other's faces and we both suddenly got wide-eyed and said, ahhhh! Simultaneous foodgasm. This final course was paired with a minute glass of tawny port. Again, it must have been very good as I usually revile the sweet wines.

Ok, as if this all weren't amazing enough, the bill arrived and there was no place to add tip. How could this be after the superlative care and attention we'd received from Phred? It seems that he and Laurie, the chef, don't believe in tipping. They price their offerings at the amount they need to survive and keep doing what they're doing.

Beside the owners Phred and Laurie, there is a 3rd person assisting in the kitchen and hand washing dishes. That comprises their entire staff. And they buy local, organic ingredients. The menu changes every Tuesday.

We'll be back. -k8-